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“Food is not stuck in amber,” says chef and cookbook author Diep Tran, as she recounts this story about her partner’s mother. “Food evolves and is dynamic. And your Tết celebrations could change as well.” Tran, previously chef and owner of the beloved Los Angeles Vietnamese restaurant Good Girl Dinette, has been proving this point for the past 11 years with her annual Lunar New Year gathering to make bánh chưng. What started as a small group of queer friends became a public event in 2019; during the two years when COVID kept many families apart, more than 400 joined the events via Zoom. This year, on an unseasonably wet and chilly Saturday, Tran and her Banh Chung Collective hosted the first in-person bánh chưng-making event in three years, for a sold-out crowd of 130 at Alma Backyard Farms in Compton, California.
“Food is not stuck in amber,” says chef and cookbook author Diep Tran, as she recounts this story about her partner’s mother. “Food evolves and is dynamic. And your Tết celebrations could change as well.” Tran, previously chef and owner of the beloved Los Angeles Vietnamese restaurant Good Girl Dinette, has been proving this point for the past 11 years with her annual Lunar New Year gathering to make bánh chưng. What started as a small group of queer friends became a public event in 2019; during the two years when COVID kept many families apart, more than 400 joined the events via Zoom. This year, on an unseasonably wet and chilly Saturday, Tran and her Banh Chung Collective hosted the first in-person bánh chưng-making event in three years, for a sold-out crowd of 130 at Alma Backyard Farms in Compton, California.
Photographed by Jeni Afuso And bánh chưng tends to be made by women, she points out. “I imagine it as the excuse my aunties had to not take care of the men for a while—like, ‘Look we gotta prep for Tết, just don’t fucking bother us,’” Tran laughs. There’s even a card game played by women while waiting for the ingredients to cook in huge pots over a wood-burning flame; it usually takes all night for the rice to turn into the masa-like consistency needed to make bánh chưng at the full six-inch-square size typically given to friends and neighbors during the Tết season. “It’s a vigil,” Tran says of the traditional preparation. Hers are half that size, and an Instant Pot accelerates the cooking time to under an hour. Her philosophy is: “You can be informed by culture and history, but you don’t have to be tethered to it.”Terri Kashima and Diep Tran making cháo, Vietnamese rice porridge with lemongrass chili oil, for lunch.
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