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The use of trilobal, pentalobal or other kinds of profiled fibre types can reduce pilling. A cross-section of the profiled fibres shows that they are not round like standard fibres, but shaped with special spinnerets. Birla Acrylic® has introduced an innovative fibre which reduces pill formation over repeated usage. Birla Acrylic® Anti-Pill fibres reduce pilling in fabrics and subsequently slow down apparel aging. Birla Acrylic® delivers a high pilling grade of 4 – 4.5 (on a scale of 5) following ICI Pill Box Test. The Anti-Pill fibre has been specifically engineered to have sustainable anti-pilling performance throughout the lifetime of the apparel. Trevira 350 is a low-pill polyester fibre for the weaving and knitting sectors. The special characteristics of Trevira 350 are embedded in the chemically modified polymer, which has hydrolysable bonds in the polyester chain. The bonds dissolve during the dyeing process, substantially reducing the transverse strength of the fibre. This reduction in tenacity is intended to lead to any pills that form with wear breaking off. This occurs early in their development. DuPont introduced soft, versatile CoolMax Alta™, a new low-pill product for use in 100% constructions. The product combines the processability of CoolMax™ with the consumer value of low-pill and moisture management while maintaining that next-to-the-skin softness. DuPont has modified the chemical arrangement of the polymer at the point of manufacture. CoolMax Alta™ provides pill ratings of 3 or better, (ASTM D3512-82 where 1 is severe pilling and 5 is no pilling), equal to or better than other synthetics and even wool.
By modifying the cross sectional shape and by adding copolymers (super pilling resistant) mechanical and technological properties of fibres can be altered. It is important to reduce flexing resistance so as to decrease pilling. The curves of the graph show that pills are formed when fabric is exposed to abrasion, which is also the case for wool. The number of pills developed per unit area, however varies considerably depending on the type of fibre. If abrasion continues after the maximum number of pills per unit area has been reached, pills break off. Therefore total number of pills will decrease, despite the formation of new ones. If normal polyester fibres are used, still many pills will remain visible on the fabric, whereas in the other three types of fibre, pills will break off almost entirely or even entirely.
However, the instrument used is only a part of the solution in pilling testing. Many in the standards development process have come to realise that inter lab variability is often not due to differences in the instruments but rather in the Pilling Evaluation and Grading. Visual evaluation of pilled fabrics may be specified by the standard that your laboratory must meet. Photographs or control fabrics are often used for these evaluations, but in either case, standardised lighting and viewing conditions are critical to reproducible ratings. SDL Atlas recommends the G210 60/120 Colour Viewing Booths as high-specification and low-cost solutions for a laboratory. M227C Pilliscope Assessment Viewer allows the user to assess pilling on tested fabrics against five standard photographs using Halogen high-incident illumination. These comparison photographs of either knitted or woven fabrics are mounted on a 5-sided drum and used sequentially to grade the samples. M&S suppliers may order a holoscopic viewing system with holograms of knitted or woven fabrics on the 5-sided drum. M227PAV Universal Pilling Assessment Viewer is designed for all standards where the assessment of pilling is necessary, whether grading against control fabrics or photographs. Note that photographs are not included and must be ordered separately as required by the individual standard. Visit the SDL Atlas website or see the current SDL Atlas catalog for details and ordering information.
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